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New View Kim Chi A Versatile Pickling Technique

7/29/2016

 
New View Kim Chi A Versatile Pickling Technique
Pickle Choir

Local Food Friday 

 Kim Chi with Caraway seeds!

    My new definition of the perfect summer afternoon
​ is being with a best friend and eating a crunchy, delicious bowl of red cabbage kimchi together with our fingers. A red cabbage kimchi, speckled with caraway seeds and strips of orange zest

 “What?” you’d say. “I understand good friends, summer afternoons, even eating with your fingers, but kimchi doesn’t have caraway seeds or orange zest.”-- that’s what I thought. 
    In fact, I thought I knew all about kimchi. Years ago I’d bought a jar, which sat forlorn in my fridge after the first forkful when I’d decided I didn’t like the stuff, because it was too hot. Then last year my neighbor brought me a jar of her homemade kimchi and I fell in love-- it was zesty, complex, flavorful, and not too hot. I knew I’d have to make my own.

    Her recipe was what we think of as kimchi: Napa cabbage, ginger, garlic, salt and Korean chili powder.
I soon found an online tutorial, and made my own.
It was wonderful, but we still aren’t to the caraway seeds. 

    What I’ve learned since my first batch, with experimentation and research is that Kimchi isn’t a recipe, it’s an easy, safe, wildly healthy, and versatile pickling technique. Korea alone has more than 160 foundational styles of kimchi.
    The Chinese characters for kimchi mean “salted vegetables”. I use an easy brining technique to kimchi
​my vegetables, and this allows me to make small batches with diverse ingredients, and flavors right on my countertop. They are ready to eat in 5 days, and will keep refrigerated for a year.

    All kimchi involves four processes: brining, flavoring, fermenting and storing, which you will learn to do in the recipe. Try the recipe at least once, and then use the same process and ratio of weights and measurements to set off on your own and experiment with different veggies, flavors and add-ins.  
    So far, I’ve brined cabbage, bok choy, mustard greens, kale raab, dandelions, nettles, carrots, beets, apples, cranberries, parsnips… I think just about everything that comes out of the garden is a possibility.  
    The flavoring pastes are also up to your imagination. Koreans use some beef broth, mushroom broth, seafood, fish sauce…and of course garlic, ginger, and peppers in their batches. But tarragon, dill, caraway, fennel, onions are also legitimate ways to go.
    My favorite part of this technique is how laid back and fun it is. I can make up kimchi as vegetables are available. The produce soaks in a salt brine overnight, which gives me time to think about the flavors. I enjoy having the fermenting jars near me, so I can taste them and decide when they’re ready. 
    My favorite resource book for pickles and flavoring ideas is  The Joy of Pickling by Linda Ziedrich.
​Online, the blog fermentista is inspirational for their methods and unique kimchi varieties. For a traditional and modern look at Korean kimchi check out The Kimchi Cookbook by Lauryn Chun.

Koreans, I've read eat kimchi at every meal, including breakfast. They also use it to cook with from pancakes to stews. Besides being a probiotic, kimchi increases the availability of minerals and vitamins in the vegetables. Best of all it’s delicious! ​

   search 

Basic Cabbage KimCHi

makes 1 & 1/2 quarts

​Ingredients

3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon sea salt 
6 cups filtered water (without chlorine)
2 pounds Chinese cabbage
One large head cored and cut into 2 inch squares, reserve two whole outer leaves.    

6 scallions cut lengthwise into 2 inch pieces
1 & 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
1 & 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh garlic
2 tablespoons Korean ground dried hot pepper 
Or other mildly hot ground chilies. I toast and grind my own dried pasilla or negro chilies, and also toss the seeds into the ferment.


Step 1: Brine 
Dissolve 3 tablespoons salt in 6 cups water. Put the chopped cabbage into a large bowl and pour the brine over it. Weight the cabbage down with a plate and a heavy bowl. Let it brine at room temperature for 12 hours.  

Step 2: Flavor
Drain the cabbage and reserve the brine. Mix the cabbage with the flavor ingredients including the 1 teaspoon of salt. Massage these into the cabbage, thinking good thoughts. Koreans have a word for this ‘son-mat’ which means: the taste of one’s hands. It refers to all the vibes that come through our hands while making Kimchi or cooking in general. 

Step 3: Ferment 
Pack the mixture into a two quart jar, cover it with some of the reserved brine. Lay in the whole cabbage leaves over it. Use a smaller mason jar set inside the larger jar to weight down the cabbage so the brine completely covers it. This keeps it from spoiling. “ Under the brine doing fine” is the maxim to remember. Keep a large bowl under it to catch any spills. Let the kimchi ferment in a cool spot, at no higher than 68F, for 3-6 days or the kimchi is as sour as you like. 

Step 4: Store
When the flavor is right, take the jar weight out and cap the jar.
I like to put mine in smaller jars. Please leave head room and don’t cap jars too tightly, because it can build up pressure.  Store jars in the fridge, the flavor will deepen. Kim Chi is good for about a year. 



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Slow Cooker Nit'ir Qibe - Ethiopian Spiced Butter

7/28/2016

 
Slow Cooker Nit'ir Qibe - Ethiopian Spiced Butter

Culinary Curiosity Thursday

Slow Cooker Nit'ir Qibe - Ethiopian Spiced Butter

Nit'ir Qibe

Spiced Ethiopian Clarified Butter
Makes 1 quart
2 pounds unsalted butter
1 cinnamon stick
12 whole green cardamom pods crushed
1 teaspoon whole fenugreek
2 teaspoons cumin seed
3 tablespoon fresh ginger minced
5 cloves garlic peeled

Method

    Put 2 pounds of unsalted butter into the bottom of a slow cooker, and add whole spices. Set slow cooker to low and infuse/clarify the butter for about three hours. The butter should not boil, only simmer--if your slow cooker runs hot, take the lid off, or turn to warm for awhile. ​
    The Nit’ir Qube is done when a white scum, which are the milk solids, form on the top, and a little bit on the bottom of the slow cooker, leaving the middle bright yellow and clear.
    Strain scum and spices out by pouring through a cheesecloth lined strainer into a storage jar. I use a rectangular quart glass storage container, because it’s difficult to get the butter out of a quart mason jar when it’s cold. Store in the fridge good for a long time. 

With Love Enjoy!
​

Key in curiosity

subtly spiced

   It adds intrigue to butter sauces, sautés  scrambled eggs, and oh did I mention--- awesome on popcorn. This spiced butter is used frequently in Ethiopian cuisine especially to sauté, and caramelize onions. There's lots of variations of spices used.
​I make mine simple, without too many contending flavors, since it’s always in an  supporting role.

​   
If you’ve made clarified butters on the stovetop and resented the attention it takes, then you’ll love this put-it-together and walk-away approach..
So Good, So Easy  
How to use it? Cooking Ethiopian of course, but
I find, I use it more often.

The spices aren’t overpowering it’s just a mellow-- oh yum,
​layer of flavor.
Slow Cooker Nit'ir Qibe - Ethiopian Spiced Butter
Slow Cooker Nit'ir Qibe - Ethiopian Spiced Butter

Berbere & Eight Reasons Ethiopian Food is Brilliant

7/27/2016

 
Berbere & Eight Reasons Ethiopian Food is Brilliant

Foodwise Wednesday 

Berbere Spice Mix

Makes 1 cup 
Ingredients

4 teaspoons coriander seeds

2 teaspoons fenugreek seeds
1 teaspoons black peppercorns
1⁄2 teaspoon whole allspice
12 green cardamom pods
8 whole cloves
2 large dried pasilla chilies, toasted with seeds. Many recipes call for chili de arbol, but I don’t like heat as much as I like the dark/ fruity chili flavors of pasilla, you can always add heat.
6 tbsp. paprika
1 whole ground nutmeg
2 tsp. dried ginger root
1 cinnamon stick


How It's Done
1. Combine all spices except paprika. Break up the cinnamon stick and nutmeg with a mortar and pestle before toasting. Toast spices over medium heat on a heavy griddle, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 4 minutes. Let Cool

2. Break chilies into small pieces, discard stems and inner parts, keeping seeds. Toast until fragrant over medium heat, about 4 minutes in a well ventilated space. I put a bandana over my nose and mouth, it’s intense but oh so good. Grind chilies including seeds until fine and sift through a fine mesh strainer. Save what won’t go through for stock.

3. Grind all toasted spices in a spice grinder until fine and sift. Don’t throw away the siftings, they make great stock. The spice siftings make a nice chai masala to drink while you’re working.  

4. In a work bowl add paprika, ground chilies, and spices together.  
Store in an airtight container for up to 3 months.


Note 
I don’t add salt, or dried onions to my berbere, I don’t like to calculate for added salt in a mix when I cook.
​I don’t add the dried onions because I use so many onions, and garlic fresh in the food.
​
They're using pancakes as spoons! 
 Lisa,  Simpsons episode the Foodwife
Key in Foodwise for more posts
Berbere & Eight Reasons Ethiopian Food is Brilliant

Pronounced bar-ee  bar-ee

    Berbere is an essential spice blend used in Ethiopian cuisine. It’s a complex blend that dances on the palate:
the bitter edge of fenugreek, sweet cinnamon, and cardamom, unexpected in a savory blend; depths of cloves, allspice and chilies; with lighter sparks of paprika and the quick heat of black pepper, nutmeg, and ginger.        
    Traditionally it’s made very hot, berbere means hot in Amharic. This blend tempers the heat for my own tastes letting all the flavors be heard. Ajwain (Trachyspermum ammi, Carum ajowan), is also traditionally added to berbere, but hard to find fresh enough worth having;
 I think it tastes like winter savory with a hit of menthol. 

    Make up a jar of berbere the day before you plan to cook Ethiopian dishes, it’ll cut down on your stress level and it’s a sensuous experience all on its own. If you’ve never started with whole spices and ground them yourself,
I guarantee you will never willingly go back to store bought pre-ground spices, there's no comparison--it’s the real deal.

    I use berbere in Ethiopian Misr Wot (Lentil Stew), Doro Wat (Chicken Stew)...but also find that I use it in black eyed pea stews, with kidney beans, chickpeas, beef and I love it on Popcorn!
Melkam megeb!   
Berbere & Eight Reasons Ethiopian Food is Brilliant
 Mesob  an Ethiopian table and platter--great space use
 Ethiopians in Seattle

 8  brilliant things about Ethiopian Food

1. Utensils are optional
Ethiopians eat exclusively with their right hands, using pieces of injera to pick up bites of entrées and side dishes. 
2. Two vegan fast days a week- that's a brilliant prebiotic plan. The Ethiopian Orthodox Church prescribes a number of fasting (tsom, Ge'ez: ጾም ṣōm) periods, including Wednesdays, Fridays, and the entire Lenten season, so Ethiopian cuisine contains many dishes that are vegan.
3. Wats --spicy legume/ vegetable or meat stews. These taste amazing and are a brilliant way to eat more beans.
4. Tibs- as a portion of grilled meat are prepared to commemorate special events and holidays. Eating meat as a special condiment to compliment the other dishes instead of being the main deal -- brilliant.
5. Kitfo--raw (or rare) beef mince marinated in mitmita (Ge'ez: ሚጥሚጣ mīṭmīṭā a very spicy chili powder similar to the berbere) and niter kibbeh. Gored gored is very similar to kitfo, but uses cubed rather than ground beef. Like good sushi, raw beef is a delicious and full of nutrition that  we don't normally get, but I'd want to know the cow....
​6. Coffee ceremony --it is the birthplace of coffee after all. It's Brilliant to create ceremony around coffee instead of just using it as a  drug. 
7. Atmet is a barley and oat-flour based drink that is cooked with water, sugar and kibe (Ethiopian clarified butter) and is often given to women who are nursing.
8. Gursha (var. gorsha, goorsha) is an act of friendship and love. When eating injera, a person uses his or her right hand to strip off a piece, wraps it around some wat or kitfo, and then puts it into another's mouth during a meal with friends or family. It's a common custom to feed others in the group with one's hand by putting the rolled injera or a spoon full of other dishes into another's mouth. That's love.

​much cited from----

Ethiopian Cuisine Wikipedia

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    Hi I'm Sido Maroon,
    chef, food writer and culinary educator. I cook, teach, and write to bring you into the heart of the kitchen. 

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“One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.” 
― Virginia Woolf, A Room of One's Own


  • Kitchen Blog
    • Food Shorts Audio Sunday
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  • About
    • Meet the Chef
    • Food Explorer
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    • The Art of Food
  • Recipes
    • Baking >
      • Gluten Free Baking
      • Levain/Sourdough/Fermented
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    • Chef's Touch
    • Fermentation >
      • Lactofermentation
    • World Foods >
      • Ethiopian
  • Activism
    • FolkArt and Food Camps >
      • bards and bread camp >
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